Pafuri to Chokwe
We stop for lunch shortly after entering Mozambique.
Much joking about land mines (we fortunately didn't
find any...)
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I find that I've become the default wood carrier. Joy
collected the left over firewood at Shingwedzi, and
with lots of space on the roofrack it makes sense that
I carry it. I'm sure we'll get to a point where we need
wood -- for now there are plenty of dead trees lying
around.
1600, Bush Camp #1: We stop in a dry river bed, round ourselves up
into a sort of a laager, and unpack chairs and beer.
This is where I realise that it would have been really nice
to have had enough water along for a hot shower -- make a
mental note to fill up at the first river we cross.
Terry and I stroll down to the river -- quite a long way,
to get to see the river, we don't bother going all the
way down to the water.
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A bit of rain during the night upsets John and Joy who
didn't put their flysheet over the tent -- and Pim who
has to close the sunroof in the middle of the night.
Toasted rolls with tomato and cheese for breakfast.
Orange juice. Coffee. It's Hell In Africa.
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We saw lots of really large baobab trees, but this is the
first one I found where the light was on the right side
for a picture.
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We enter the game reserve at 1005.
We get to cross a river and I collect about half a can of not-so-clean
water. A cap of Milton, and it's good enough for a shower.
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Bush Camp #2 :
At 1600 we pull off the road into a secluded spot. I back into the
bushes and have a hot shower. Lekkerrrrrr!
Early the next morning, a Land-Rover with a bunch of guys on the
back comes past. They're clearing land mines about 4km thattaway... |
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Breakfast is a humoungous fry-up by Pim. Six eggs, a packet
of bacon, there goes my diet. Orange juice, as always, and
coffee.
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We start driving at 0820 (this continued for the rest of the trip,
start at 0830-ish, stop at 1600, if at all possible). 15 Degrees,
so I start with a T shirt, jersey and jacket and remove as required.
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At 1210 we reach the southern border of the park, and cross over the
dam wall. At our lunch stop just out of town I hurriedly slap together
dough for a bread.
Bread Recipe
Ingredients: all amounts non-critical
30 gr yeast (i.e. one packet)
30 gr sugar or 120 ml honey (i.e. as much as you feel like)
625 ml tepid water (i.e. somewhere between two and three cups)
1 kg flour (or less if your pot is small. 750 grams also works)
30 gr salt
Mix half the water with yeast and sugar, to make sure that
the yeast is still OK. It should start bubbling fairly
quickly.
Make dough using the yeast mix, then the honey and the rest
of the water. If it gets sticky it's too wet, add flour.
Knead the dough until it's nice and pliable.
Allow the yeast to rise, then knead it again.
Oil the pot, dump the yeast in the pot, wait for it to
rise until it fills the pot, stick it on the fire (this
is the tricky bit :-)
Trick : When the coals look ready, move the
fire. Put the pot on the warm ground where the fire was.
Then put coals around and on top.
Because the fire is still close to the pot, turn the
pot at least every 15 minutes, about 90 to 120 degrees
every time.
The bread is done when you can stick a skewer in and
it comes out clean. Start checking after an hour or so
but don't be too worried before the end of the second
hour.
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We had to drive almost all the way through Chokwe to reach the
petrol station. I put in 113000 Mt worth of fuel, 62 litres.
Pim and I later learnt that we share our liking of the attendant.
Cute girl. I hope Pim got a photo, I didn't.
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The locals tell us that the bridge over the river is a much better
idea than the ferry, so we head back into town, up the road, and
over the bridge. By now it was getting late, and we needed a place
to camp.
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Bush Camp #3 :
We eventually ended up camped quite close to a village, a bush
camp with a signal, so I SMS home. Of course, there's no loose
firewood to be had close to a village, so the wood I've been
carrying comes in handy. And I still have a bag of charcoal
if we really need it...
Some guys on a bakkie came round to check up on us, see whether
we're good or bad guys. Very friendly, once they figured out
that we were in fact good guys :-)
And the bread came out quite
nice, after almost lifting the lid off the pot because I left
it in there for so long. Supper was sirloin steak, potato in
foil, onion in foil. And bread, of course.
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