My father bought us an "Apple ][", somewhere around 1980. A friend of his was involved with importing Apple clones from Taiwan.
We started off without floppy drives -- I wrote a "breakout" lookalike in Integer Basic, which I eventually lost when the cassette I was using failed.
Later we got floppies, as well as a Z80 softcard and 80 column card for running CP/M.
I spent many many hours on this machine, coding, playing games, hacking games to give more lives, trying to break copy protected disks, and the like. Remember Zardax? It was an "upcopyable" word processor, apparently quite good by 1984 standards. I made the best copy I could, then spent hours trying to figure out why it didn't boot. Never managed to make it work, though...
I managed to scrounge a ROM card, a complete set of Apple ROMs, and a pukka Apple motherboard (unpopulated). I used the ROM card to crack games, both copy protection and nifty things like getting extra lives and axes in Conan. I still have all my notes, someday I might post it...
My RAM is a motley collection of chips from all over. This one time, the motherboard fried, and they replaced half the chips, including about half the RAM. Also, some RAM chips blew before, and I replaced it with what I could find.
So this time, I found my stash of 25 brand new 4164 64k x 1 chips. These have four times the capacity of the 4116 chips used in the Apple, and are 5V only parts (the 4116 needs -5V and +12V as well).
http://arcarc.xmission.com/Tech/TECH_ Replacing 4116 RAM with 4164, 41256, etc_.txt.
From: "Matt Osborn"
Subject: TECH: Replacing 4116 RAM with 4164, 41256, etc. Date: Monday, October 23, 2000 12:40 AM I saw some posts recently about replacing 4116 RAM with 4164, which is more reliable (it uses only one voltage, not three!) and is cheaper (if you know where to look!). I wanted to come up with a solution that works for all boards (no board hacking or harness tricks involved). So here it is: Take your 4164 chip and bend pin 8 up and over the top of the chip. Solder a small wire from that pin to pin 9 (which is directly across from it, and has +5V on it). Pin 1 of the 4164 is not used... just snip it off so you don't have to worry about the -5V on the board. That's it. The chip is ready to plug into the socket of the 4116. You can do almost the same thing with a 41256 (also known as TMS4256, MCM6256, HM51256, MB81256, etc., 256k*1). In addition to flipping up pin 8 and connecting it to pin 9, bend up pin 1 and connect it to pin 16 (that'll tie the high address line to ground... you can't leave it floating). I used TMS4256 to replace some blown out 4116 in my Juno First, and it works great. Runs much cooler!!! Soldering the wires is a little bit of work, but worth the effort. Matt http://ozborn.home.netcom.com/levelers.html
This works well, and I replaced the first two banks, giving me a "160k Apple(!)" (of which I can of course only use 64k :-) Will upgrade the third bank sometime as well.
Bought one off eBay. The jumper block has three broken pins.
Apple II Super Serial Card jumper block wiring. 1-+ +-16 | | 2-+ +-15 3-+ +-14 | | 4-+ +-13 5-----12 6-----11 7-----10 8-----9 (This is in the Super Serial Card Installation and Operating Manual, on the schematic page.
Apple disk drives, controllers, and the IWM.
You'll find the schematic for the analog part of the Disk II here or in the DOS 3.2 Instruction and Reference Manual on Rich Cini's page.
Somewhere along the way I acquired a The Mill. There was also an EXCEL-9
I bought a Catweasel back in 2005. As of 2015 it's still unused.
I found some Wildcard PCBs on eBay.
(From the Classic Computer list)
Tony Duell said:
There are 8 chips on the Disk II interface board : 1 off 256*8 PROM P5A (bootstrap program) 1 off 256*8 PROM P6A (State machine data) 1 off 74LS323 (Data Shift Register) 1 off 74LS174 (State machine latch) 1 off NE556 (Motor-on timer, etc) 1 off 9334 (Addressable latch, assorted output bits) 1 off 74LS132 (NAND gates, assorted functions) 1 off 7405 (inverters, also assorted functions)
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